When the cool, crisp air of autumn rolls in there’s nothing like the first pumpkin beer of the season… well, that’s how it used to be. Now the pumpkin beers start coming out early August, and it’s like we’ve wished away the summer. We’ve all read the articles that go “Pilgrims didn’t have enough grain to make beer so they subbed in some pumpkin. Now craft brewers are making pumpkin pie in a glass!” That’s not this article – I want to talk about pumpkin beer hate. The market is crowded, beer geeks are wary of gimmicks, and breweries feel pressure to get these beers on the shelf. Despite this, pumpkin beers seem to be one of the most popular and coveted seasonal beers, with some breweries’ versions reaching cult-status amongst fans. (My wife being one of them!)
Don’t get me wrong, I still have a lot of positive things to say about pumpkin beer. Despite being a warm-weather, savory-food kinda person, eventually I admit to myself that summer is gone and fall is here. That’s about late September, which brings me to a frequent topic in the craft brew industry, “seasonal slide.” This is the tendency for breweries to release their seasonal beers as early as they can get away with.
I spoke to Jason Petros, a host on The Brewing Network about his perspective on pumpkin beers. Petros has unique insight, as The Brewing Network is an online radio and podcast company that interviews brewers and brewery owners and produces content relevant to homebrewers and beer lovers. “One of the principles of the craft brew industry is innovation and experimentation. It’s a way for breweries to distinguish themselves and develop brands with fanatical devotion. An example of this is the ‘imperialization’ of beer styles that has been the trend for a few years. With pumpkin beer this is especially prevalent.”
I looked at Beer Advocate’s ratings for the Pumpkin Ale category, starting by sorting the list for the most-reviewed beers. The beer with the most reviews was Southern Tier Pumking (one of Kath’s favorites) with over 5,000 reviews, and Dogfish Head Punkin’ a close second. The third most reviewed was Weyerbacher Imperial Pumpkin with just over 2,000 reviews, and the list drops dramatically from there.
It shouldn’t be surprising that Pumking is at the top – as one of the most uniquely flavored pumpkin beers out there, it’s one of these in the cult category. Besides the classic pumpkin pie spices, Pumking also seems to imitate the crust of a pumpkin pie with a rich, buttery, toasted graham cracker background. Dogfish Punkin’ has been around since 1994 and at the time it certainly embodied the company’s approach to off-centered ales. As a 7% ABV brown ale, it was one of the few examples of Imperial Pumpkin back when most pumpkin beers were simply light, refreshing amber-colored ales and lagers with a little bit of extra spice.
Petros went on to say, “The same thing that encourages brewers to take something like a pumpkin beer, a once delicate and refreshing style, and boost the alcohol and other flavors may be what is making hardcore craft drinkers jaded.”
Jay Campbell, the beer buyer at Beer Run, has a differing opinion: “I certainly see the complaints that pumpkin beer comes out too early, and yet you can’t argue with how quickly we sell out of some of these. Even our devoted hopheads will walk out with a few bottles of pumpkin every year when they roll out.”
This describes me pretty well – probably half the beers I buy are hoppy, many of them are imperial, and I’m always looking for well-made examples of the classic beer styles. However, when the pumpkin beers come out there are a few that I cannot miss every year.
We’re lucky in Virginia to have two incredible examples available to us. One is Schlafly Pumpkin Ale from St. Louis, Missouri , and the other is AleWerks Pumpkin Ale from Williamsburg. Looking again at the Beer Advocate Pumpkin Ale category, I took the top 50 most-reviewed beers and then sorted them by their scores. Schlafly and AleWerks are #2 and #3 respectively, with their scores neck and neck. Beer Run experiences a rush on these two with every shipment that arrives, and I’ll say that when I saw these two hit the shelves in early August I couldn’t resist purchasing two six packs of each, just in case I didn’t get another chance!
Campbell commented on this, “The thing is, these breweries produced these beers in late June sometimes, because they all need time to age and package. Then they send them to the distributors in mid-July with the okay to send them on to the stores, but we’re seeing the distributors hold off until the beginning of August to release them to retail locations. The high demand for these beers combined with the low supply is what’s fueling the seasonal slide.”
When I bought my case of pumpkin beer, I almost felt the need to promise the cashier that I wasn’t going to drink them now and instead was planning on keeping them in the fridge for at least a month! There’s a stigma that “real craft beer lovers” shouldn’t like pumpkin beer, and that it’s just a gimmick to attract the people who defiantly say they don’t like beer. Is pumpkin beer the equivalent of cheap, sweet, white zinfandel in the wine world?
Looking at the hashtag #pumpkinbeer on Twitter is revealing. The first tweet of the year was on June 30th from the beer news website BeerPulse.com, announcing (appropriately) the availability of Pumking. The next several are retail locations announcing the arrival of pumpkin beers, and then the customer comments begin. Many are positive, but there are plenty of “come on” and “too soon!” mixed in as well.
Perhaps the point of contention is the stark contrast between hot summer and the iconic flavor of fall. After all, the winter beer season features barleywines and other strong, warming beers, but there is little complaint when these debut in October because it feels right for the season. But in the same vein of pumpkin beer, Twitter is equally awash of people complaining in March about drinking the newly-released summer beers in the middle of a snow storm.
I have mixed emotions about seasonal slide. As a hot weather lover, I’m never ready to admit that summer is over. Pumpkin beers on the shelf just rub it in my face. But as a small business owner, I definitely understand the pressure that breweries must feel to get their beer out and available. The demand for pumpkin beers drops to nearly nothing after Thanksgiving each year, and no brewery wants to be stuck with unsold product knowing that they likely will have to throw it away. So when’s the right time to brew it?
Hunter Smith, president and head brewer at Champion Brewing Company, was adamant that his pumpkin beer be made with real pumpkins, sourced from local farms. That puts the first production around mid September at the earliest, and factoring in the fermentation and conditioning it could be as late as October before customers are having their first taste. This is important to Smith, however, stating “I get sentimentality for the seasons – I’m a sucker for it, and that’s why I think seasonal creep is inappropriate; it just cheapens the season.”
Champion is no stranger to beers made with unique ingredients, from oyster stouts, holiday-spiced Belgian dubbels, and pineapple IPAs, to being one of the few breweries in the world producing the gose style (look it up!) And yet Smith had some reluctance to get in on the pumpkin trend: “There was a lot of pressure to create a pumpkin beer despite my feeling that it’s a rushed and played-out style. I did a Facebook poll to make sure I wasn’t being narrow in my view and it was quite clear I was.” Smith produced two pumpkin beers as a result. The first was titled Kicking and Screaming Pumpkin IPA “as a nod to my reluctance and IPA to make it interesting. I liked it and it was really popular.” His second pumpkin was a 6.5% ABV beer, along the classic lines of pie-in-a-glass. “The IPA and the spice beer were kind of a ‘one for me, one for you’ situation.”
At the time of writing this article (late-October), I’m still seeing a surprising supply of Schlafly and Alewerks pumpkin still available. Is it possible that people are buying less this year? Or have Charlottesville residents been such a high buyers in the past that breweries/distributors are sending more to our area? In either case, with two kegs of homebrewed pumpkin beer on tap, I think we’re firmly pro-pumpkin in our house!
What’s your take on pumpkin beer? Would you consider yourself a craft beer expert or noobie? What breweries are producing some of your favorites?
I can’t wait to try some of these, thanks for sharing!
I am not a pumpkin beer fan. It’s all spices! And I find it amazing how people lose their minds over the stuff. I feel like it’s the moscato of the beer world.
And Schlafly is actually the on pumpkin style I don’t hate. Good pick!
When colder weather comes around, I prefer a Belgian quad over pumpkin beer.
I really enjoyed this post!
This was an awesome post. One of my favorite fall activities is to head to my local liquor store (I live in MD), and create several variety 6 packs of pumpkin beers to taste test with my friends.
For fear of missing out on the popular stuff that I enjoyed last year, I was embarrassed yet excited to stock up at the end of August this season. I made sure to wait until I needed to wear a sweatshirt outside before opening anything at least.
Favorite beers for fall this year are Fordham Spiced Ale and Southern Tier Warlock (makes a great beer float).
I don’t drink alcohol but it sounds like an exotic, expensive drink!
If you’re ever in Tampa, you have to check out Cigar City’s Good Gourd. It’s an IPA with that buttery crust taste. The best I’ve ever had!
Definitely a noobie here when it comes to craft brews, but I find the whole thing interesting and love trying out new beers. Question: What does Champion mean by “real pumpkin”? Actual smashed gourds instead of puree? Does it make a difference in terms of taste? Puree must make production easier. Is this another argument among craft beer fans?
Thanks for the beer post, Matt!
I love pumpkin beer with Pumpking and Dogfish being my favorite. But there have been some really terrible ones from brewers just trying to hop on the bandwagon I think.
My husband loves beer. I can’t stand it, but your description of the PumKing beer *almost* makes me want to try some. 🙂 I can’t believe how many pumpkin beers there are out there! I’m going to go to the store this weekend and see if any of your favs are there and pick a few up for the guy.
The “seasonal slide,” as you mentioned, drives me crazy. Like you, the idea of a pumpkin (or any fall-themed) beer isn’t something I’m ready for in August, when I’m still thinking of sunshine and time by the pool. However, it’s becoming increasingly more difficult to find said beers when they’re actually seasonal, so I find myself having to purchase a case early and then holding on to it for a while. If not, by October, most of the varieties are long-gone from the stores around here in favor of Christmas-themed beers (gingerbread, what?). The creeping of seasons seems to begin earlier and earlier each year for commercial products, beer included, and I often find myself burnt out on the “it” item, in this case pumpkin, by the time the season actually arrives. Kudos to the brewers who recognize the value of truly seasonal beer made with seasonal REAL ingredients!
I’m a fan of pumpkin beer and have also been frustrated with the releases being earlier and earlier each year. I try to find a new one each year that I haven’t tried and this year I am loving Flying Dog’s Fear Imperial Pumpkin Ale. It’s rich and heavy, full of flavor and perfect for an autumn evening in Upstate NY!
Thank you for this list! I tried the Pumpking a year ago and despised it. I may just not be a pumpkin beer person (too malty for me?), but I definitely want to give it another go.
I also tried Pumking and did not enjoy it. I think pumpkin beers are not for me. I did have an amazing strawberry beer about 10 years ago and I’ve been looking for it ever since (can’t remember the name, but would recognize the label if I saw it, sadly I’ve never seen it again).
I’m not a fan of Pumking either – that unique flavor it has that some people love I find sickening.
We love the Schlafly. We have friends in STL and go there once a year. This year we visited the brewery and tasted some wonderful brews. But while we were in KC for the marathon last month, we purchased the Pumpkin Ale. I still have a 6-pack in the fridge. It has become my favorite seasonal!
i love this post! thank you for sharing. I didn’t really start drinking pumpkin beer til last year — and I found saranac to be my favorite. then i had a couple girlfriends over and we tasted about 9 different pumpkin beers, saranac still holds top position, i think mostly because it’s smooth, and the spice is minimal. but not everyone loves it. I love it.
I hate the seasonal creep! i actually held out on buying any pumpkin beer until mid september. I like to take each season as it comes and goes. so i can appreciate brewers who hold out! now if only everyone could follow that philosophy!
Matt, I was interested to read that you found plenty of Schlafly and Alewerks. I had a similar experience with Pumking. About three years ago, it was definitely a “cult” product and was very difficult to find. I think people went mad for it, and last year, I remember a.) seeing cases and cases at the distributor and b.) thinking it wasn’t as good. I don’t know if they changed their process or if I just felt tapped out, so to speak.
I’ve had it a couple of times this year and really liked it again. But I’m starting to think of it more like a wine … meant to be sipped, as a nice accompaniment to fall food.
My love for beer has been dwindling the last couple months but I’ve been a huge craft beer lover for the last 5 years, at least. I really dislike seasonal slide. It drives me nuts that pumpkin beers are out in August and winter beers are out in October. I refuse to drink a pumpkin beer earlier than September, and mid September at that. In Sonoma County the warm weather sticks around until October. In general, I’m not a huge pumpkin beer fan at all, and have somewhat always thought “noobies” enjoy it the most because it goes along with the whole “OMG, PSL!”.
Anyway, great article! I really enjoyed reading it.
I have loved pumpkin beers for years but Pumking is my favorite these days (It helps that I literally live down the street from Southern Tier Brewery). I am never ready for it until late September/October though. I like it to be a special seasonal treat.
I love Pumpkin beer! I’m totally bothered by the seasonal creep when it comes to decorating and stuff in stores, however NOT when it comes to beer. It’s the middle of November and I am super happy to see Christmas Ales arriving on our shelves.
WARLOCK is my favourite!!! In my honest opinion it’s superior to Pumking
Kath, have y’all tried 21st Amendment’s Fireside Chat? It’s my absolute favorite fall/winter beer. I’d be curious to hear how y’all like it!
I believe we have and liked it!
I thought Fireside Chat was pretty tasty, but I really liked the He Said pumpkin beers they did this year.
I would definitely classify myself as a craft beer mobile. Though there are more and more craft breweries popping up in Richmond, I admitedly haven’t been to one. I have never tried a pumpkin beer before-mainly because I try to avoid gluten-but may need to see what all of the hype or lack there of is all about.
I was surprised to read that you think the number of reviews drops “dramatically” after the top three. If anything, it seems like the most dramatic drop in number of reviews is from #1 to #3, but that the number of reviews gradually decreases from #3 to #17. I’m not sure why that is, but I don’t think your interpretation of the stats was necessarily accurate. I do want to look for some of those middle-of-the pack beers though and give them a shot–maybe I’m overlooking a good thing because I’m not hearing much about it.
Anyway, back to your post. I like enjoying my favorite drinks seasonally, as it makes them seem more special. I stick to wheat beers and G&Ts in the summer, only drink pumpkin beers in the fall, and then move on to stouts and porters in the winter months. I do enjoy the top three BA rated pumpkin beers, too. I’m a sheep, I suppose. 😉
That’s partly because of the way I wrote this article – I wrote half of it in early August and then revised it in late October. There was a bit more of a distinction in the number of reviews when I first wrote it but I guess I should’ve changed the language. Interestingly, the beers changed position in the couple months delay! Schlafly and Alewerks were 3 and 4 but moved up!
You both should think about trying Ace Pumpkin Cider! I am gluten intolerant so I avoid beer, but I found this pumpkin cider at a bar here in Chicago and it tasted like pumpkin pie – so good!
My husband is all about craft beers. The only beers I like are ciders, so I’m pretty out of the loop. haha
Funny. I’m not a beer lover, but because of Kath’s post on the taste testing you guys did of Pumpkin Beers and having only had one myself, I had to try the Pumking. When I was on a quick weekend trip visiting friends, I decided to try it and loved it! I even bought a couple bottles to take home with me for my husband. The night I arrived home, I took a pregnancy test and BAM! Preggo! Haha… so now we have two bottle to open up next year since the bottles marked the same day we found out we were expecting. At least it’s a delicious beer!
Hahah – congrats! But I’m sorry you can’t try it now : (
I love that you guys love beer! I live near Boulder, Colorado so beer tasting at new small breweries is what my husband and I do for date night with our little one (IPA’s, ambers and reds are my fav). The newer breweries are SO family friendly with outside tables and grass and lawn games at most of them. We let our little one run around while we enjoy the brews! There seems to be a new one popping up every month! We have 3 breweries in our small town alone. Anyway, I decided a week ago I wanted some pumpkin beer and the guy at the liquor store was like, “we’re all out, those came out 2 months ago.” I didn’t realize I had totally missed the season. My husband was able to find some Upslope pumpkin beer for me- it is delish! Upslope (out of boulder) also makes an amazing IPA! If you are in Colorado- check out Odd 13 brewing in lafayette, co- Eric the Red is one of the most amazing beers I have ever had!! You definitely need to come beer tasting around here- it is amazing! Thanks for the post…all this talk about beer is making me thirsty!
So jealous you guys are near Crooked Stave, and so many other great breweries in your area!
Awesome post! More than a post….practically a thesis on pumpkin beer. Do you have any favorite Chicago area breweries for Pumpkin beer. Specifically craft brewers?
matt I was just wondering about the he said. did you drink it like a black and tan or separate? I found it after drinking fireside chat at whole foods and didn’t realize that there was two different beers in the pack
I’m excited to see my hometown has the number 1 ranked pumpkin beer- Good Gourd! A friend of ours in Pittsburgh is a big fan of Cigar City and asked us to bring him some Good Gourd on a recent trip we took up there. I’d never had it and went in a store to see if they had it in stock yet… The guy said they’d just gotten two cases in that day so I was in luck. The friend wanted 12 bottles and they gave me a really hard time about buying that much! I guess people really love it! Unfortunately for me, I’m 8 months pregnant and haven’t been able to try it yet but we held back a bottle to try later!
I love pumpkin beer. My favorites would be The Lost Abbey’s Avant Gourde (from San Diego-ish area) and Catawba Brewing’s King Don’s Pumpkin Ale (from Western North Carolina).
Ugh, seasonal creep is the worst! I hold out until September for Oktoberfests, and later in the month for pumpkin beers (finally got to try the Schlafly this year when my husband brought it back from a work trip to Cville – yum!). Same thing with Christmas ales – not til after Thanksgiving – and summer seasonals – not until May. Unfortunately, as you said, we all panic that the supply will run out and stock up as soon as we see it, which I think only encourages stores to put it out even earlier the next year.
I am totally guilty of being a pumpkin beer lover. Sadly, I’ve searched high and low for Pumking and can’t locate it anywhere! Rogue Pumpkin Patch Ale is one of my all-time favorites. My favorite is their hazelnut brown!
This was interesting! It’s fun to hear from Matt 🙂
I am not a pumpkin beer lover — I’ll have a taste once or twice a season, and then I’m good. That said, I loved the Schlafly shout out! I went to college in MO and have a soft spot in my heart for the brewery.
This article was very well written–
Pumpkin beer! Now that is something I’ve never seen before. It must totally not be a ‘thing’ here in Australia as I have never, ever come across it before.
It looks like I’m going to have to go to the fancy, huge bottle shop now to track some down – as I really need to try one of these recommended brands!
Great article. Pumpkin beer is not popular where I live (pumpkin taste in general), I’m in a big city, we have a lot of breweries, but the demand is not there. I’m a big IPA fan and I always have a lot of choices!
Great article Matt!